“Haugen could quite easily be a cynical theme restaurant but, weirdly, it’s charming. The food is extremely good and the cod-Tyrolean stylings are executed with total commitment, a straight face and a good heart. Their black Forest Gateau might not be ironic enough for my barbarous English taste, but for introducing me to my first leafless salad I shall remember them for ever. And for the fondue, I’d stand on the pitch at half-time and yodel.”